Surf Cat

By: August Howell

While 18-year-old Luca Padua is not the first person to get hurt surfing California’s most notorious wave, how he dealt with an injury he sustained out there is rather unique.

In the offseason, Luca puts his body through a training regimen akin to a mixed martial artist. So when his gun broke his tibia during a session at the Mavericks left, Luca’s high fitness level allowed him to climb back on his board and continue to surf. Then a few weeks later, he surfed Jaws for the first time — before getting the bones realigned.

Luca Padua at Mav’s. Photo: Pompermayer

Ever since the Santa Cruz crew began surfing there in the ‘90s, young surfers have ascended the ranks at Mavericks, from Ion Banner and Tim West Jr. of Half Moon Bay to Nic Lamb from Santa Cruz and Colin Dwyer of Pacifica. This is the first time Mavericks has been consistently surfed by a group of young Half Moon Bay locals — a committed, tight-knit band of brothers ranging from age 18 to twenty-something. The self-proclaimed “Mavs Mafia” — Luca, Hunter Murison, Peter and Thomas Lundgard, Michael Joshua, Thomas Agramonte and Adam Bloomer — now have several adrenalized winters under their belt. And while they all have jobs or classes that take them separate ways at times, their bond is tight, as demonstrated by Dom Padua, Luca’s older brother, in his new web series, “Mavericks: A New Perspective.”

The boys learned how to surf in town’s raw beachbreaks. At eight years old, Luca enrolled in the California State Parks Junior Lifeguards Program, and rode his first wave with a push from his friend Malcolm Feix, only four years Luca’s senior yet already a gifted waterman. When Luca dropped into his first wave at Mavericks at age 13, he was struck with that familiar sensation. “I swear I had a flashback of my first wave ever, and it was that same exact feeling,” Luca said. “Getting that first wave at Mavs was the same hook.”

Malcolm became a mentor to Luca, shaping him into a consistent charger. Then on July 21st, 2018, the Half Moon Bay community was shocked by devastating news that the standout surfer and seasoned lifeguard had drowned while surfing south of town. He was 20 years old. Malcolm’s infectious enthusiasm impacted all those who knew him, in and out of the lineup, and the heartbreaking news shock waves through the community.

But much like tragedy itself, the raw, punishing waves on this stretch of coast will either dishearten aspiring surfers or mold them into something stronger. Gradually, the boys assembled through the junior lifeguard program and the high school surf team. For those who developed an appetite for larger surf, going out to that wave beckoning past Pillar Point was the next step.

Luca Padua. Photo: Fred Pompermayer

While all of them had the talent, none were reckless or overeager to surf Mavericks. Each waited their turn to be taken out by an older local, and more often than not, it was West who showed them the ropes through high school. In accepting the challenge, the boys discovered the true spirit of a big-wave brotherhood. They believe big-wave surfing promotes a positive lifestyle, a commitment to health and fitness, a connection to nature — even humility.

“It’s not just a love for surfing,” said Hunter, now 21. “It’s a love for that vibe out there. No other spot in the world will replicate that feeling when we’re out there.”

“It’s good for us to be around good people who fire us up to do what we do at Mavericks,” Luca added, “but also to be good, solid people and a positive influence — maybe one day as a dad or a husband or a hard worker.”

As with most close peer groups, each wants to see each other succeed. After amassing a quiver from San Diego-based shaper Stu Kenson, Luca granted his friends a few test runs. Eventually, he crowd-sourced funds to buy Hunter his own Kenson before the 2018 winter season. A few months later, Hunter came out of his first barrel on the notorious heaving lefthander on that same surprise 9’10” baby swallowtail. Now, Thomas and Peter Lundgard also ride Stu’s blades.

“It’s not just a love for surfing. It’s a love for that vibe out there.” Hunter Murrison at Mav’s. Photo:Pompermayer

But while they enjoy the thrill Mavericks brings, its danger is never far from their minds. At 20 years old, Thomas Lundgard airdropped the right and his board smacked him in the head, knocking him unconscious for a few seconds. “If you think it’s for everyone, it will put you in check quick,” Hunter explained. “All it takes is one mis-paddle, one foot too far to the right or the left, and you can get so smoked.”

VIEW: Live Mavericks Surf Cam

Despite the risk, their friendly-yet-competitive act keeps the bar high. As they continue to progress at an alarming rate, the professionals are taking notice. “There’s something about that wave being in your backyard,” said Jamie Mitchell, who’s worked with Luca on his approach since before he had his driver’s license. “You get a special connection to it and you can see all those guys have that. They’re so comfortable out there, they make it look easy. And most of them are on their backhand, too, which is even more nuts.”

San Francisco-based big-wave surfer Grant Washburn has been a mainstay in the Mavericks lineup for over 20 years. Considering how small Half Moon Bay is, and the unfriendly nature of the waves, Washburn was surprised to see how good this young local crew had become. “Everybody’s stronger as a group,” Washburn said. “And they were getting exposed to the best and crazy people from all over the world that would come here every year. So you have this perfect petri dish for that.”

Portuguese tube hound Nic Von Rupp was similarly impressed by what he saw when he surfed Mavericks for the first time last December. “Luca is really young, but he’s been around and has had some great performances over the years,” Nic said. “He’s always been a guy I’ve looked up to out at Mavs.”

Likewise, there are many lessons these young men can learn from those who come to ride their local spot. But no one can prepare them, or coach them, for the pain to come. Or the pain of the past. Since Malcolm’s passing, the crew is determined to seize every opportunity on the table. “If anything, it made me want to charge harder,” Hunter said of Malcolm’s death. “It gave me the feeling he’s watching over us. He’s our guardian angel, especially here in Northern California.”

Indeed, tragedy can alter mentalities in many different ways, and in the case of the Mavs Mafia, it merely strengthened their resolve to surf one of the heaviest waves in the world. Malcolm continues to be a source of inspiration. Tributes can be found at various beaches throughout Half Moon Bay, from stickers displaying his “Show Up & Be Kind” motto to his printed image overlooking the Princeton Jetty.

“His energy is there, his spirit is there,” Luca finished. “We’re going to do our thing and go big regardless, but now we feel obligated to go that much bigger and get that extra step for him. The last thing he would want is us tripping on losing him. What he would want is us running shit, catching huge waves and having fun.”